Pinnacles National Park Climbing Trip

When we're in Michigan and we want to do an outdoor climbing trip we drive 7 hours down to the Red River Gorge in Kentucky. It's a trek, but the beauty and quality of the climbing at the Red is well worth the travel. When Becky wants to go outdoor climbing she just drives 1.5 hours to Pinnacles National Park. So close! This past weekend we checked out Pinnacles with Becky and some of her climbing friends. Though it's close enough to day trip some people wanted to camp. So we arrived Saturday afternoon, camped that night, and climbed all day Sunday before leaving. 

Becky, Brandon, and I arrived a few hours before the others, so we set up camp and hiked into the park to find some climbing. We had the guidebook, but figuring out the layout of a new climbing area and type of climbs can be a challenge. And, as it turned out, Becky had only been to Pinnacles once before. After chatting with some fellow climbers and getting our bearings we began a climb on Discovery Wall called Wet Kiss and rated 5.9. 

Brandon led the route, but not without some intimidation. The first bolt for the climb was higher than we're used to. Even our stick clip wasn't adequate in height to reach it. It appeared to be an easy scramble to the first bolt, but even easy scrambles should be treated with caution as they increase in height. We discovered that this initial scramble is pretty common for climbs at Pinnacles. So we stretched our comfort zone and were especially diligent in spotting each other. 

At the top of the climb Brandon was faced with confusion about the anchor system. We're used to large rings to anchor into and eventually clean and run the rope through to lower the climber. The anchor system at Pinnacles requires clipping into the chains and saving the rings for rappelling. Many of the climbs share anchor systems, so you may have to share with other climbers. I had never done a rappel before. It was apparent I was going to have to learn this skill. 

Additionally, most of the climbs at Pinnacles top out on a semi-flat rock surface. Thus the anchors are on top rather than just below the edge. This placement causes a lot of rope friction, which will wear out the rope quicker, if belaying is continued from below. To protect our rope we had to learn to belay from the top. When all climbers reach the top everyone either rappels down or walks off the climb. At the pinnacles one side of the rock structure must be climbed with ropes and the other side may be able to be hiked down. Kind of amusing and anti-climactic to do all that work to climb up the steep side with a rope and then just be able to hike up and down the less inclined opposite side! 

We have climbed sandstone in Red River Gorge and limestone in Thailand, but Pinnacles is volcanic rock. The technical term is breccia which composed of large jagged fragments of sedimentary rock that are bound together by a mineral cement. Much of the breccia is in a slab wall formation with some steeper areas often intermixed with yards of run out. The run out is easier, less steep climbing, but it is often not protected by bolts (because of its ease) which makes climbing it more intimidating. 

So that first afternoon we adjusted to the new rock and different kind of climbing. We both managed to complete Wet Kiss and a 5.6 rated climb called Portent as we met up with Becky's friends later in the afternoon and learned new skills. 

On top of Portent

We had brought all our camping gear with us this road trip, so we were game for camping at Pinnacles. It was also supposed to be a low of 43 degrees that night and theoretically camping would allow us to get an earlier start on climbing the next day. Unfortunately neither of those things happened. The firewood we bought from the ranger station would not light despite multiple attempts, so we started getting cold while preparing dinner. Eventually, the temperature dropped below freezing and we found frost on our tent in the morning, which explained us waking what seemed like every hour due to being cold. With a frigid start to our day we all moved slower and didn't get unthawed and climbing until later than expected. Alas. 

Despite the uncomfortable camping we did have a good time hanging out with Becky and her friends. They are a musically talented bunch, and we enjoyed listening to their banjo, harmonica, ukulele, and violin jam session lit by headlamps. They'll tell you that they aren't that good, but we disagree. It was impressive. So impressive that many other campers joined our circle to dance, listen, or add another harmonica. Quite the community event and what Becky called "classic Santa Cruz". 

The talented trio

Our ascent to the climbing areas on Sunday morning was breathtaking. The scenery was complete with the rocky pinnacles, bushy greenery, caves formed by fallen boulders, waterfalls running through the caves, bright sunshine, and a glassy-water reservoir.  

Hiking out of a cave and past a waterfall

Waterfall flowing down from the reservoir

Brandon and I acclimated ourselves slowly on a 5.9 called Coyote Ugly while Becky, Krista, and Johnny climbed the First Sister Pinnacle. Coyote Ugly required setting at least one trad climbing cam in an non-bolted area half way up the route. Brandon had set a cam a few years before on a route but had someone looking over his shoulder advising him at the time. The area on Coyote Ugly requiring the cam had a stable foot ledge to rest on so he felt fairly confident about placing the cam. In the end, he was successful setting the cam and a back up cam, and it turned out to be good trad practice. He then set up a top belay so that I could climb up after him. We both hiked down the other side of the pinnacle afterward with our rope and gear. 

Brandon leading Coyote Ugly with me belaying (photo credit: Becky from atop First Sister) 

Great view of Pinnacles National Park with the reservoir far below Coyote Ugly

Me climbing thru a crux region of Coyote Ugly

While Brandon and I ate lunch, Johnny led Coyote Ugly and Krista and Becky took turns climbing it on top rope. 

Becky making her way up Coyote Ugly

Later in the afternoon I led a 5.8 route called Sinbad on The Camel Wall. I was intimidated by some longer areas of run out between bolts, but my prior slab practice and experience paid off and kept me sure footed. It felt good to get a lead in for the day and conquer some fears related to the different rock face. I then was able to top belay for Becky to climb. 

Me leading Sinbad

Cool silhouetted photo of me that Brandon snapped while hiking up to the top of The Camel

Brandon greeted me as I reached the top of Sinbad

Becky climbing her way up 

Me keeping Becky safe via top belay

You can see that its a lot of work to top belay.

Almost there! 

We're all at the top enjoying the view

As the sun was setting and darkness was creeping in Brandon found a route already set up on top rope that looked interesting. We checked with the climbers who had set up the top rope and they were willing to let us use it while they completed another route. We're not fully sure what route it was, but we think it was an 5.11b called The Verdict on Discovery Wall. Brandon easily made it about 75% of the way up before reaching a section that he had to project more. He would have spent more time on it, but a few other people wanted to try the route as well so he only tried the section a few times before coming down. I'm proud to say of the three people who tried the route, he got the furthest. I really wanted to try it as well, but it was dark enough by that time that I would have needed a headlamp. Plus, the other climbers wanted to clean their gear, collect their rope and hike out. 

Brandon climbing the probably 11.b

The sun rapidly set as Brandon climbed

When you're adjusting to a new climbing area and climbing type it can be tough to get a good amount of climbs in a day. So sadly we only completed two routes each the entire day. But, we have enough of a handle on Pinnacles now that if we return we'll briefly map out a plan for the day and be assured to get in a few more climbs. Plus, in reality, hanging out with Becky was the main goal of the trip which we accomplished and enjoyed.