Castle Rock State Park Rock Climbing Trip

It turns out there's another outdoor climbing area even closer to Santa Cruz than Pinnacles National Park. Castle Rock State Park is just a 40 minute drive away. There are several sandstone bouldering areas as well as some taller cliffs. As at Pinnacles, much of the rock is slab. There are some good sport climbing areas there, but other routes require trad gear or are top rope accessible. The state park is often busy with the likes of day hikers as well as climbers. 

Monday was President's Day, and many people in California have the day off. Because of the holiday, Mission Springs did not have day campers so Becky was able to take a half day. In the afternoon the three of us headed to Castle Rock along with Johnny and Krista. On the drive we were able to experience the opposite direction of curvy, winding Highway 9 that we had taken the other day. As we reached the park, we had difficulty finding parking for our two vehicles, probably due to the holiday. Eventually though we were able to gather our gear and hike in to find some climbs. 

As we hiked up past the Castle Rock section of the park we saw many people bouldering on the rock. We decided to head to Underworld Rock instead, so we continued on. On our way we stopped on top of California Cliff climbing wall and took in the view of the state park with the Monterey Bay beyond. 

Becky and Krista leaning into the view

You can just make out the ocean on the edges of the picture

The climbing crew atop California Cliff

After some more hiking and some scrambling down steep areas we made it to the Underworld. It was peaceful when we arrived, and we had our pick of the routes. There was a 5.9 rated climb called Balance Sheet, but I didn't like that the first bolt was so dangerously high up. Johnny decided he was up for that one and started to set up. 

I picked a 5.10b to climb called Hit Man instead because the first bolt looked more accessible. As it turned out, the bolt wasn't as easily reached as I had hoped, but I made it up there just fine to begin my lead climb. The whole route turned out to be a bit intimidating. The crux was getting over a ledge with minimal hand holds to use. And eventually there was some sandy slab run out to the top. I did finish the route though, and it was good to overcome some fears of falling. 

Krista belaying Brandon as he starts the 5.10b

Brandon topping the 5.10b

While I was leading the 5.10b another group of climbers showed up at Underworld. They set up a top rope on a 5.10d called Poop Shoot and another on a 5.9- called High on Life. They were a fun bunch, and we all chatted and shared our rope set ups with each other. Thus, I was able to get in four good climbs that afternoon. Unfortunately, Brandon wasn't able to do the 5.10d before the darkness set in. It was disappointing because the beginning of the route was rather jungle gym like with some cool hanging rock and loop hole features. 

Johnny belaying Becky on the 5.9-

Starting the 5.10d was rough

Scaling the "poop-like" formation that gives the route its name

Almost to the top. This part of the route I felt was like climbing the "ridge of a dinosaurs back" 

Becky working the crux of the 5.10d 

We gathered our gear and hiked out of the park in the dark with our headlamps. On the way home we stopped at Tacqueria Vallarta for some take out. We brought our tacos to Becky's friend Amanda's house, and Sarah and Brianne met us there for their weekly viewing of the Bachelor. The tacos were good, especially the verde pork and vegetarian tacos. The Bachelor, while not as good as the tacos, was entertaining to watch with the group. 

Our taco spread from Tacqueria Vallarta

That evening Brandon and I decided that we would have to return to Castle Rock State Park so that he could have a chance to climb the 5.10d. It had been a full day and we wanted a rest day on Tuesday. But, with forecasts of rain for Wednesday and Thursday we knew we couldn't risk waiting. So, on Tuesday we headed out for Castle Rock again, just the two of us. 

On the way we stopped in Los Gatos to pick up supplies at Trader Joe's and an Asian store called Lion Food Center. We wanted to make Becky a Thai dish, but Santa Cruz does not have Asian markets to supply the ingredients we needed. After securing the necessities we drove up another section of Highway 9 to Castle Rock.  

Instead of starting immediately with the 5.10d we were tempted by a 100 foot climb adjacent to Castle Rock Falls. The route was called The Falls and rated a 5.8 (or 5.10a if you did the direct start). There was a large platform for hikers to observe the falls, and anchors could be created underneath the platform to do the route. We used our webbing to anchor to a metal support for the platform and a thick tree root. I then anchored myself in and top belayed Brandon. I slowly lowered him down the rock wall until he requested me to stop and began the route about 5 feet up from a stream bed that the falls created. 

Our anchor set up

Brandon enjoyed the route, especially having the unique view of the falls to one side while climbing. The slab wall with minimal foot and hand holds and interesting finger pockets (like holes in a bowling ball) was fun too. Amusingly, an Asian tourist who had hiked to the falls filmed (without permission) pretty much Brandon's whole climb. He must have been impressed. Others also noticed us climbing as they looked over the platform and observed for awhile. It was kind of weird, like we were part of the local scenery or some kind of zoo exhibit. 

Hanging out at the top of the climb

After Brandon's successful ascent it was my turn to be lowered and then climb. I too enjoyed the beauty and challenges of the route. We both decided it was harder than a 5.8, so we must have done the direct 5.10a start as mentioned in the climbing guide book. Either way it was an awesome experience and when we told Becky about it later we insisted it was a must-do route for her at some point. 

Not quite close enough to touch the falls

Climbing right beside the falls

With that fun experience under our belts for the day, Brandon decided we should check out another new area and forgo the 5.10d for the moment. Eventually, with much consultation of the guide book, we found Platypus Rock. There Brandon led a made-up route which combined a 5.10a called Moss Man and a 5.9+ called Howling Iguana. The combination was due to a strange bolt set up on the rock face, which did not seem to correctly define either route well. The start of the route was smooth rock, lacking helpful holds, so we were glad to have our stick clip for the first bolt. Once he reached the top, Brandon set up some anchors through two bolts. I then climbed and cleaned the quick draws. Brandon then climbed one last time to set up a rappel and lower himself, since there were not proper rings to allow for other route cleaning options. In the end, we decided the route was good practice for a rappel, but not that interesting overall. 

After accomplishing the routes at Platypus Rock, we didn't have time to do any more climbing. We hurried home to start our Thai dinner and Thai lemongrass green tea as well as make some Triple Chocolate Espresso cookies for dessert. Brianne made a delicious kale salad to go with the meal and she and Carl joined us for dinner as well. We were rushing to make dinner as the original plan was to hit the climbing gym with Becky still that evening.  But, with lingering over dinner with Brianne and Carl plus our bodies aching from the outdoor climbing over the past two days we decided to save the climbing gym for Wednesday night. Instead, we spent a relaxing evening with Brianne and Becky finding Airbnb stays for their trip to Sweden and Brandon and I blogging. A perfect ending for the day.