A Really Great Day in Thailand

We've had a lot of challenges in Thailand that have resulted in some negative posts lately. But, Wednesday was a really great day! 

We knew we wanted to climb on Wednesday, so on Tuesday night we rented a 125 cc motorbike for just 199 baht ($6 USD) for 24 hours with two well-fitting helmets and collision insurance. The customer service was good and this was the best deal we've found on a motorbike thus far, so we were already feeling pretty good. With having the motorbike the night before we were able to leave bright and early in the morning for the Crazy Horse rock climbing crag. 

Crazy Horse rock climbing crag is located about 40 km east of Chiang Mai. The first time we went out to Crazy Horse we paid 300 baht per person for transportation in a red taxi and lunch. Riding in red taxi is not comfortable for long. There are usually at least eight passengers seated on two long benches and you feel every bump along the way. I cannot express how much more comfortable it was to do the 1 hour ride on a motorbike instead. We put some of our climbing gear in the space under the motorbike seat, strapped the climbing rope between Brandon's legs, and I wore a backpack with the rest of our gear. We only had to use two highways to get to the crag and the landscape quickly turned to quiet, easy-to-ride countryside. The weather was cool and overcast and the wind in our faces was refreshing. Brandon quickly adjusted to the motorbike and was a comfortable, adept driver. Our stop for gas was easy, since we already knew the protocol from previous experience. 

Red taxi...not our favorite form of transportation

On our motorbike with our rope bag strapped between Brandon's feet. It's hot, but wearing long sleeves is more protective from wind and sun. 

Within an hour we made it to Crazy Horse. Since we had risen and left early we arrived a full hour before the red taxis. We had the crag to ourselves for awhile before more climbers arrived. And, we were well armed with sunscreen and mosquito spray to make the climbs more enjoyable. 

Our motorbike and gear at Crazy Horse

As we made the small hike to the Furnace Wall, we made a pact to just enjoy the day and take it easy on ourselves. We didn't choose the hardest climbs, but we chose some fun ones. At the Furnace Wall, we did the following: 

• Sideshow (1st pitch) a 5c rating, 27 meters led by Katie 
• Backburner a 6a+, 24 meters that we topped using the anchors of Sideshow

Katie leading Sideshow

Some views from the top of Sideshow

Thai countryside with thick clouds and mountains in the distance

The anchors in the foreground and crazy horse cliff jutting out in the background

We then hiked up the mountainside a bit further to Gatekeeper Buttress. I'd felt like I might want to try to lead my first 6b, so we checked out one there. It was called The Gatekeeper and it was only 20 meters, but it traversed over a huge cavern. It looked like the options for foot holds rapidly disappeared until you were eventually just hanging over the cavern. In order to return to the belay area the climber would have to find some holds to cling to and climb back. Otherwise the book recommended lowering the climber down into the cavern and then using another rope to rappel down with the rest of the gear. We didn't have two ropes to accomplish this. Either way, collecting all of our quickdraws and the gear seemed sketchy and intimidating. So, we moved on. I decided to complete my 6b quest on another day. 

The Gatekeeper 6b climb over an archway over the dark, deep cavern below. Maybe you could use the bamboo stalks to pull yourself back to the belay area???

We hiked even higher to The Rooftop. This area had just three routes, but some awesome looking slab. It also had the claim of being the highest area you could climb at Crazy Horse and thus having some great views. We tested this claim and found it to be true on the following: 

• Heun Fah (Ascending the Sky) a 5b, 21 meters of slab led by Katie 
• Skyscraper a 6a, 29 meters led by Brandon and our favorite route at Crazy Horse thus far. The route was super fun with some slab, overhangs, big boulders to climb over and rest on, and finally a chimney to the anchors. The view of the Thai countryside below was pretty beautiful too. 

Brandon cleaning Ascending the Sky, a fun simple slab route

After finishing our climbs at The Rooftop we went down the mountainside to the parking area for a late lunch. We had packed some granola bars and peanut butter, which immediately drew the attention of the other climbers. Everyone wanted to know where we had found peanut butter in Chiang Mai. It felt good to feel like experts and actually know something about Chiang Mai, even if it was only about peanut butter! 

After lunch we decided to do one more easy climb before heading back to Chiang Mai. The Crazy Horse Wall was closest, so we went there. I led The Muppet Show a 5b, 27 meter climb. It was pretty easy making it a good last climb of the day. 

The ride back on the motorbike went smoothly. There was some more traffic, but with a motorbike you can pass the car traffic on the side and move more quickly. I was admittedly a little sore from being the passenger, but certainly no more than in a red taxi. We promised ourselves that we'd get a good massage tomorrow. After dropping off our climbing gear at home we returned the motorbike. 

On our walk back to the house we stopped at a market and picked up a few more items for dinner, three cooked chicken skewers and three chocolate oatmeal cookies. We had already picked up some fresh produce the day before because we had arranged with our host to all make tacos together! Tacos! The food that makes a good day even better. 

Using the produce we had bought, our host, Alana, prepared and shared her awesome mango salsa recipe with us. She also shared refried beans she had brought from the States, tortillas from an expat store, and cheese (which is a luxury to buy in Thailand, like peanut butter). Our tacos with refried beans, chicken, cheese, avocados, and mango salsa tasted heavenly washed down with some Leo, a light Thai beer. 

Taco and Leo, a classic Thai beer

Thailand doesn't have the best baked goods, so we didn't set our expectations high for the chocolate oatmeal cookies. But, we warmed them in the toaster oven and we all agreed that they went down well with some red wine. It was a lovely, Mexican themed meal (which is hard to find in Thailand) made even better by the community we were able to share with Alana. It was a wonderful way to end a great day in Thailand!